Janet Fletcher

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Better with Feta

Photo: Sara Remington

I’m not a big cheeseburger fan, to be honest. I prefer my burgers plain. But a lamb burger topped with feta? Well, that’s another matter. Ground lamb shoulder makes the tastiest burger, and crumbled feta on top contributes a creamy, briny, tangy note—like adding a sliced pickle but better. Everything else about the Fourth of July will be different this year. Why not shake up your menu, too, with these succulent burgers?

Lamb Burgers with Grilled Red Onions and Feta

Feta favorite: 100% sheep’s milk

Choose a Greek, French or Israeli feta. They are largely or entirely made from sheep’s milk. Feta made with goat’s or cow’s milk won’t be as creamy and won’t melt well. From Eating Local by Janet Fletcher (Andrews McMeel).

  • 2 pounds freshly ground lamb shoulder

  • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon dried oregano

  • 2 teaspoons sea salt

  • 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes (or to taste)

  • Freshly ground black pepper

  • 6 red onion slices, 1/2-inch thick

  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

  • 1/3 pound feta, at room temperature, crumbled

  • 6 hamburger buns

  • Ground sumac (optional)

  • 2 tomatoes, cored and thinly sliced

Prepare a moderate charcoal fire for indirect grilling or preheat a gas grill to medium (375˚F to 400˚F), leaving one burner unlit for indirect grilling.

Put the meat in a large bowl and add the oregano (crumbling it between your fingers as you add it), the salt, hot pepper and black pepper to taste. Work the seasonings in gently, then, with moistened hands, shape the meat into six patties about 3/8-inch thick. They should be a little wider than your hamburger buns as they will shrink in diameter when cooked.

Use thin bamboo skewers to hold the onion slices together. Two skewers per slice, inserted to make an “X”, will do the job. Brush the onion slices on both sides with some of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Photo: Sara Remington

Grill the onion slices first: Place them directly over the coals or flame and cover the grill. Cook until nicely colored on both sides, about 5 minutes, then move to indirect heat until they are softened but not limp, about 5 minutes longer. Keep warm while you grill the burgers.

Grill the burgers directly over the coals or flame—lid off on a charcoal grill, lid on for a gas grill. Cook until they are done to your taste, which you can best determine by touch. A rare burger feels soft, with no spring back. A medium burger will offer some resistance to the touch, but will not feel firm. A well-done burger will be firm to the touch. Cooking time depends on the heat of your fire, but a medium burger will take about 10 minutes. A couple of minutes before the burgers are done, top with feta, dividing the cheese evenly.

Toast the bun halves on the grill, cut side down.

To assemble the burgers, sprinkle the bottom halves of the buns generously with sumac. Top with sliced tomato and sprinkle with salt. Remove the toothpicks from the onion slices and put a slice on top of each tomato. Top the onion with a burger, sprinkle with sumac, then cover with the top half of the bun. Serve immediately.

Serves 6

Greek Yogurt Sorbet

Photo: Eva Kolenko

When sweetened and churned in an ice-cream maker, Greek yogurt tastes like lemon cheesecake. Serve it with grilled or broiled peaches or with a warm slice of fruit pie. From Yogurt: Sweet and Savory Recipes for Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner by Janet Fletcher (Ten Speed Press).

  • 4 cups whole-milk Greek yogurt

  • ¾ cup granulated sugar

  • ¼ cup light corn syrup

  • 2 tablespoons light brown sugar, sieved to eliminate any lumps

  • 1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

  • ¼ teaspoon kosher or sea salt

In a bowl, whisk together all the ingredients. Chill well, then freeze in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions. Transfer to a lidded storage container, cover, and freeze for at least 1 hour to firm.

At serving time, remove the sorbet from the freezer. If it is hard or icy, let stand at room temperature until soft enough to scoop.

Serves 6