I’m happy eating corn naked. (Hmmm, better rephrase that.) I’m happy eating just plain corn—no butter, no salt. I know, it’s not normal. And it’s hard to reconcile with my love for esquites, the Mexican preparation that takes corn to the other extreme, embellishing it with green chilies and chili powder, crema and cheese. You can grill the corn first or saute it. Either way, the result is a spectacular summer salad you’ll want to eat every day.

Maybe you’ve eaten or made elotes — corn on the cob slathered with mayonnaise, then sprinkled with grated cotija cheese, chili powder and lime. It’s made with starchy field corn in Mexico and sold by street vendors. Esquites is just a deconstructed version—all the same seasonings but with the corn cut off the cob, so it’s not so messy to eat.

I prefer Mexican-style sour cream (crema) over mayonnaise and queso fresco instead of cotija. Queso fresco is moister and creamier than cotija and less salty. All the other ingredients for esquites are pretty much added to taste. I like a lot of lime and cilantro. You can use any chili powder you have or go to a Mexican market for powdered guajillo chile—Rick Bayless’s preference in this dish.

Enjoy esquites for lunch or as a side dish for grilled fish, pork chops, chicken or sausages. For elotes, assemble the same ingredients but leave the corn on the cob. Slather with crema, sprinkle with cheese and serve the other condiments on the side.

Esquites

Mexican-Style Street Corn Salad
If you don’t want to grill the corn, cut the kernels off the cobs and sauté in 1 tablespoon butter in a hot skillet until they no longer taste raw and are slightly charred, about 3 minutes.

• 1/3 cup Mexican-style crema

• 1 small clove garlic, finely minced or grated with a Microplane

• 2 large ears sweet corn, husks and silk removed

• Kosher or sea salt

• 2 scallions, thinly sliced

• 1 jalapeño, minced (omit seeds for less heat)

• 1/2 cup grated queso fresco

• 1/4 to 1/3 cup chopped cilantro

• Juice of 1 lime, or more to taste

• Chili powder

Prepare a hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill to high. In a small bowl, whisk the crema and garlic.

Cook the corn in a covered grill, turning as needed, until hot throughout and charred in spots, about 15 minutes. Cut the kernels off the cobs (you should have about 2 cups) and transfer to a large bowl.

Add the crema and stir to coat. Season with salt. Stir in scallions, jalapeño, queso fresco and cilantro. Toss gently. Add lime juice and toss again gently. Top with chili powder and serve.
Serves 2

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