Want to guess which of these beauties was the hands-down favorite in my recent class on holiday cheeses? The top vote-getter didn’t surprise me, although (lovely as it was) I didn’t vote for it. I selected most of these cheeses because they’re only or primarily available now, during the run-up to the holidays; others made the cut because they are party-worthy for other reasons. People expect Cheddar and Stilton on a holiday buffet. Shake things up with one or more of these showstoppers.
Clockwise from twelve o’clock:
Crémeux des Cîteaux aux Truffes (cow’s milk/France): Made in Burgundy, this triple-cream knockout is halved horizontally and slathered with black truffles, then reassembled and aged by affineur Rodolph Le Meunier. Over time it knits together again under a thick white bloom. Pass the Champagne.
Camembert Fermier (cow’s milk/France): From the Ferme de la Tremblaye, an eco-conscious enterprise near Paris, this farmstead gem could pass for a raw-milk Camembert. It takes skill to produce such enticing aromas—porcini, cooked cauliflower, a hint of cabbage—using pasteurized milk.
Landmark Creamery Anabasque (sheep’s milk/Wisconsin): I wanted this one for my plate because my host The Cheese School of San Francisco had it and I don’t see it often. One of very few aged sheep cheeses in this country, Anabasque is not as silky as the sheep cheeses from the French Pyrenees, such as Ossau-Iraty, but the family resemblance emerges in the aromas of roasted nuts and custard and the sweet, cooked-milk finish. Murray’s has some if you’re curious.
Seasonal dazzler: Rush Creek Reserve
Uplands Cheese Company Rush Creek Reserve (raw cow’s milk/Wisconsin): This one is seasonal, made only in the fall when the farm’s cows have transitioned from fresh grass to hay and the milk is extra-rich. Modeled after the Swiss Vacherin Mont d’Or, Rush Creek Reserve relies on a spruce band to keep it corralled. When fully ripe, it’s scoopable; slice off the top and dig in. You’ll find a robust woodsy aroma of leaf litter and mushrooms.
Schnebelhorn (raw cow’s milk/Switzerland): A modern creation from a third-generation cheesemaker, Schnebelhorn is a cream-enriched wheel weighing about 15 pounds and matured for eight months. The extended aging and frequent brine washing produce captivating aromas of roast beef, garlic, brown butter and roasted onion. And such depth of flavor! Don’t rush through this one: its character unfolds in layers.
Black Betty (goat’s milk/The Netherlands): Selected by affineur Betty Koster of Fromagerie L’Amuse and matured under her watch, this goat Gouda is essentially an extra-aged Brabander. At 12 to 15 months, Black Betty is a dense yet creamy salted caramel of a cheese. An oloroso sherry is magic with it.
Stichelton (raw cow’s milk/England): When Stilton producers decided to prohibit the use of raw milk about 30 years ago, Randolph Hodgson of Neal’s Yard Dairy, the British cheese retailer and exporter, swung into action. He put together a partnership with a dairy farm and cheesemaker to continue producing the recipe with raw milk and traditional Stilton cultures. It can’t be called Stilton, but Stichelton is a near-twin, with aromas of toast and hazelnuts, a mellow flavor and a luscious, buttery texture.
And now, the reveal. The class favorite, predictably, was the truffled Crémeux. I cast my vote for Black Betty. Goat Gouda isn’t typically where I land, but this was a superb wheel.
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