She’s a superstar of American cheese, sourcing the best from around the country for her acclaimed Manhattan shop and wholesale business. Pre-pandemic, Anne Saxelby supplied cheese to almost every New York City restaurant that cared about serving the best. But what a year. “Our two biggest revenue streams just disappeared overnight,” says Saxelby, the founder of Saxelby Cheesemongers. Given that May is American Cheese Month, I wanted to hear her views on how the pandemic has changed the cheese landscape. And, of course, I asked her to curate a cheese board featuring three American cheeses she’s loving right now.
I have edited our conversation for brevity and clarity.
So how was the year for Saxelby Cheesemongers?
Saxelby: I have amnesia about the early days, but I remember a really strong trend toward staples—a lot of Cheddar and mozzarella and Parmigiano and less of the more exotic things. We definitely saw people going for those comfort foods, but that has leveled out.
Our Chelsea Market store is still operating at about 50 percent of pre-pandemic. That location relies so heavily on tourists and people who work in the buildings. Those groups aren’t coming back anytime soon. Business has been gangbusters for Brooklyn shops because everybody was at home and their neighborhood shop became their go-to. But Manhattan is a different story. People who live near Chelsea Market are affluent New Yorkers who fled to their country houses. Manhattan is still a ghost town.
How has the pandemic changed what American cheesemakers are making? More aged cheese? Fewer new items?
There’s been a shift toward pre-packaged cheese. Shops wanted pre-cuts because they didn’t have the labor to break down full wheels of cheese. At the beginning of the pandemic, cheesemakers pulled back from doing cheese that ripens quickly, but that had normalized by the holidays. We weren’t really looking for anything new—we were in survival mode—but Nettle Meadow has been endlessly innovative.
What shifts in consumer behavior are likely to be long lasting?
Our online business is much more vibrant—up 345 percent from 2019—and I think to some degree that will stay. People who like good cheese have become accustomed to buying online. It will be interesting to see whether virtual tastings hang on. The pandemic opened the door for people to taste with a cheesemonger online or to meet a producer while doing so. That’s an opportunity that will continue in some regard.
People still hate (paying for) shipping, but those who don’t have a great shop in their area and found an online retailer during the pandemic, they’ll keep doing it. We’re shipping a lot of cheese to places off the beaten path.
What do you anticipate for the year ahead? Restaurant sales roaring back? More parties at home?
Saxelby Cheesemongers exclusive: Calderwood
I have no idea. We are probably at about 50 percent of our pre-pandemic restaurant sales, and online sales have started to decrease as people are shopping in person and going out more. We’re going to try to keep the online customers we’ve gained but I think it’s going to plateau.
Do you think most cheese shops will return to cutting cheese to order and doing sampling?
I think customers will get back to purchasing cut-to-order cheeses as they begin to shop in-store more often. I think sampling will eventually return, but it’s hard to say when the public will be comfortable with it. Maybe by the holidays this year?
What three cheeses would you recommend for my All-American cheese board? What are you loving right now?
The Calderwood has been tasting so great lately: a nutty, tropical-fruit, honeyed flavor. I’m also loving all the fresh goat cheeses that are starting to come back in season. The Oriskany Mini from Cochran Farm is super good—a little 7-ounce drum that reminds me of a Chabichou or Charolais but with more moisture. It’s a lovely, tangy, yeasty goat cheese. And, for contrast, maybe Verano from Vermont Shepherd, an aged sheep cheese. The Verano we’re selling now was made last fall so it’s kind of caramelly and dense, with nutty, sheepy flavor and that hint of sweetness that is round and satisfying. (Note: All three cheeses are available online at Saxelby Cheesemongers.)